For those that know me, it should come as no surprise that my favorite part of our recent trip down to the Bayou was centered around a food!
On day two of our trip, we took the
Flavors of the French Quarter tour by Tastebud Tours. Tickets were $56 a person and you could choose between two different times. Our tour met at 11am and we basically spent the next 3 hours walking around New Orleans eating food. (Which is included in the price of the tour. The only thing that costs extra is if you want to buy alcoholic beverages at any of the restaurants or you want to purchase merchandise from the locations.)
Micah and I left our hotel around 10am and walked the almost mile to the meeting point on Decatur Street, down by the French Market. Once our group of 14 was assembled, we set off.
Our first stop was across the street (literally) at a place called Tujague's. The second oldest restaurant in New Orleans, Tujague's is known for inventing the drink "the Grasshopper" and also for its mirror behind the bar, which was shipped from France in the 1800's. Our tour guide said what made this impressive was that it was shipped AS IS (all in one piece), and it arrived and has hung, STILL all in one piece ever since.
Our dish from Tujagues was Red Beans and Rice. Which- I'll be honest- I wasn't thrilled about when I heard that was our first dish, BUT, it was actually quite good and I ate all of it.
Our second stop was a candy shop a few blocks away called Laura's Candies.
Without a doubt, the best part of this stop was the ALL YOU CAN EAT FREE SAMPLES found around the store. I tried 4 different kinds of Pralines (Micah's new favorite thing), some flavored almond barks, a Mississippi Mud fudge, and they give you an entire Praline to go when you leave! (**this is one of the stops that several of the other tour members bought extra items after trying them, and had we wanted to carry a bag around with us, we would have too! If this had been the last stop of the tour, I think we would have ended up spending $50 before I could get Micah out of there. **Feel free to insert the "kid in a candy store" joke**)
Stop number three was, again, a few more blocks away, but our tour guide did an excellent job of taking us down the "less traveled" streets so we could get a feel for the 'real New Orleans'. The scenery was gorgeous, and the rain they called for earlier in the week seemed to change its mind and we had a beautiful day of nearly 80 degrees to enjoy.
I am going to apologize now, because it's at this point that my camera decided when it was going to work. I took so many pictures and when I got back to the hotel, I realized that half of them were nowhere to be found!
Stop three was at a fun hole-in-the wall place called Old Coffee Pot Gumbo. This was a neat little place and we were seated in their outdoor garden area. The walls were painted with frescoes of Old New Orleans. (This was one of the many photos that 'disappeared' from my phone...thanks, Google Photos.)
This was one of my favorite stops of the day because we got to try TWO menu items. Gumbo and Jambalaya. It was also here that we learned the difference between Creole and Cajun. Creole is the native New Orleans style of cooking and Cajun sort of encompasses the entire state of Louisiana. So when you say that you are going to New Orleans to eat Cajun food, you're not TECHNICALLY wrong- since you're still in the state of New Orleans, but you're probably incorrect if you're eating locally in New Orleans since most places cook in the Creole style.
This was the seafood Gumbo. My Jambalaya picture disappeared. But, both were surprisingly very good. I was nervous about the Gumbo- and they brought that first. It was a chicken-broth base, with rice, okra, oysters, carrots, shrimp, and various herbs and spices. I don't like shrimp very well, but the soup base was delicious. I ate everything except for the big pieces of shrimp.
The Jambalaya was a tomato/rice base (so it had an orange-red color and was thick enough of a dish you could eat it with a fork or a spoon). It had sausage, chicken, and some spice to it. I love spicy food, and since they serve you a big glass of ice water at every location, I would have even added a little more spice to it, had it been an option. I ate all of that in its entirety, it was delicious. I could have ordered it in a 5 gallon bucket and brought it home with us.
Our next stop brought us to Bourbon Street- to a place called Nola Po'boys. Guess what they serve? Yep, ice cream! (Ok, they did have an ice cream counter, but they serve 40-something kinds of Po'boy sandwiches.
It was here that if we weren't on a tour and I had ordered something, I would have walked out. We were treated as an inconvenience, and all three staff members that we interacted with were completely rude to us. It's not like we were filling up their main dining room and taking seats away from their 'real customers', as they had a room in the back for the tours to sit in. Even our tour guide said something to the effect of "I guess everyone is having a bad morning today" so that makes me think that perhaps they aren't always this rude...but still!
At this stop we got nearly half of a roast beef po'boy. It was roast beef, lettuce, mayo, and a heaping helping of gravy all smashed between a fresh baked baguette. Our tour guide joked with us that no one gets any utensils, and you only get 7 napkins. She then wished us luck.
I picked mine up, and all the contents immediately slid out of the bread into the paper they had put down for us. I had a picture of my sandwich fail, but it was in the photos that disappeared, unfortunately. I still managed to eat most of the sandwich with my fingers and what I tasted was heavenly. I am not usually a fan of mayo, but it worked well with the gravy, meat, and lettuce. Had they not been so rude to us, we might have gone back for dinner that night and gotten full size sandwiches (and maybe a plastic fork).
By this time, I'm feeling pretty comfortably full, and that's good because I wasn't too thrilled about our last menu item, Shrimp and Grits. By this time, we had walked about a mile and looped back sort-of near our starting point, but farther down the street.
A cute little cafe called Saint Cecilia. It had a decently welcoming feel, but they were very strict about where we could sit and we couldn't move chairs around. (the bachelorette party that was on our tour were the only ones that really seemed to care that they couldn't all pile around one table, but whatever)
It was here that we were served the 'famous' shrimp and grits. Again, I'm not a huge fan of shrimp but boiled shrimp is my least favorite. Sure enough, they brought us three boiled shrimp smothered in a special BBQ-esque sauce, all on top of a scoop of cheese grits. Knowing full well that I probably wouldn't care for it, I nibbled at a piece of shrimp and honestly, I was surprised. The shrimp isn't what I disliked!.. It was that sauce. It was sweet but also left a tangy/sour taste in your mouth; it tasted vaguely smoky, like they had tried to go for a smoky sweet BBQ, but had accidentally dumped too much vinegar in the mix and as a result, the sauce was almost too bitter and was runny like a beverage, not thick like what I typically envision BBQ sauce or gravy. It was bad enough that I offered my shrimp to Micah and he declined (he LOVES shrimp). I couldn't even eat the cheese grits on the bottom because they had dumped that sauce all over the dish and by it being so thin and runny, it had soaked down into the entire bowl. I envied the girl sitting next to me a little bit, she had a shellfish allergy so the restaurant had brought her a bowl of just the cheese grits, which she offered to share with me because her bowl was almost the size of a platter (had I been actually hungry, I might have accepted and shared a bowl of food with a stranger).
I'm no food critic and I would certainly eat at Saint Cecilia Cafe again, but the shrimp and grits...weren't for me. Or anyone else at our particular table.
Our tour ended after this. We were across the street from the Old US Mint, so we decided to walk around the front of the building and check it out. It was free admission, after all.
The first floor was all we really cared about seeing, and that was the actual old Mint part. The top two floors were a jazz/art museum.
It took us about 20 minutes to go through the part that we wanted to, and then we went to the second floor to sit on a bench inside the art museum while we figured out a plan of action to see as much of the city as we could in one afternoon. We decided to walk down a few more blocks and catch the cable/streetcar. Day passes were $3 a person and a single day pass was good for any line in the city. So we started by riding the blue line, which was down by the river (where we were currently wandering around). They had the windows on the streetcar open, and the ride was very enjoyable to our tired feet.
We got back into the downtown area and hopped on the red line, which took us through the main street/heart of the city, all the way out to Mid-town. Then we came back on the green line and walked back to the hotel to shower and change for dinner.
They also had lines that took you out to the cemeteries, and several other lines we didn't get to ride, (brown, orange, purple..grey?) but we were tired from walking around for the last 3 hours. We had dinner at a little pizza place down the street from the hotel and had the entire indoor dining room to ourselves. It was a nice change from being in a crowd of people all day. Plus the pizza was good, the two of us finished off a large by ourselves...I might have helped, a lot, with that.. (hey, baby was hungry!)
So, overall thoughts:
Could I live in New Orleans? -No.
Could I spend a week there? -Probably... just maybe not the week AFTER Mardi Gras and the week BEFORE St. Patrick's Day.
-I really enjoyed the cuisine, and there were a ton of things we could have done, had we wanted to spend the money and had the leisurely time to do them. There are tons of tours and events, if you do some research. Swamp tours, ghost and vampire tours, voodoo tours/museums, dinner cruises down the Mississippi, heck- you could just wander around listening to the different bands and street performers- there's definitely enough to do. Even for families with small children, they have an aquarium and a children's museum. Granted, I'm sure there are more things for families to do but those are the two things that we came across in our two days in the Big Easy.
Would I go back? - Yes, I think so. Micah and I agreed that next time, though, it would be ideal to have a little group, or at least another couple to go do some of these things with. (And me preferably NOT be pregnant. After 3 hours of walking, my feet were pretty swollen and I'm sure I got cranky...)
These next few weeks (ok, months) are already booked up, so on to the next adventure! Life doesn't slow down, so neither can we.